The heartland of the great Inca empire and the centre of operations for the Spanish conquest is no longer sold as a low-budget, backpacker destination with just one significant activity – namely trekking to Machu Picchu. Peru also has no fewer than three Amazon regions: the riverine national parks and reserves around Iquitos; the Chachapoyas-Gocta-Kuelap circuit, with its mummy museums, ruins and lofty waterfall; and the Tambopata reserve, where boat trips are increasingly popular.