Indigenous Bolivia is most evident in the towns and pueblos of the altiplano (highlands), where the topography – often compared to Tibet – is starkly beautiful. At its mountainous heart, La Paz is chaotic, quite ugly, and very polluted, but the city’s location, beneath the towering hulk of 16,350-foot-high Illimani, is astounding. To the west, Lake Titicaca, on the border with Peru, is the biggest lake in South America.